The owners of a Portland, Ore., small
business called Kooks Burritos have shut down their business after an interview
detailing their trip to Mexico to learn about the burrito-making process
resulted in a debate about “cultural appropriation.”
Kooks
Burritos owners Kali Wilgus and Liz “LC” Connelly spoke with the Willamette
Weekly about what
sounds like, essentially, a fact-finding trip to Mexico in search of the best
burrito.
Here are the pieces of the interview that sparked outrage online and
effectively closed down the business:
CONNELLY:
I picked the brains of every tortilla lady there in the worst broken Spanish
ever, and they showed me a little of what they did. They told us the basic
ingredients, and we saw them moving and stretching the dough similar to how
pizza makers do before rolling it out with rolling pins. They wouldn’t tell us
too much about technique, but we were peeking into the windows of every
kitchen, totally fascinated by how easy they made it look. We learned quickly
it isn’t quite that easy.
On
the drive back up to Oregon, we were still completely drooling over how good
[the tortillas] were, and we decided we had to have something similar in
Portland. The day after we returned, I hit the Mexican market and bought
ingredients and started testing it out. Every day I started making tortillas
before and after work, trying to figure out the process, timing, refrigeration
and how all of that works.
The
Willamette Weekly has since added a note at the bottom of the story, saying,
“Kooks Burritos has closed.”
The
reaction on the internet has had everything to do with it.
Consider Mic’s headline, “These white cooks
bragged about stealing recipes from Mexico to start a Portland business.”
Or
the Portland Mercury’s
headline, “This Week in Appropriation: Kooks Burritos and Willamette
Week.”
Here’s
how that piece began:
Portland
has an appropriation problem.
This
week in white nonsense, two white women—Kali Wilgus and Liz “LC”
Connelly—decided it would be cute to open a food truck after a fateful
excursion to Mexico. There’s really nothing special about opening a Mexican
restaurant—it’s probably something that happens everyday. But the owners of
Kooks Burritos all but admitted inan interview with
Willamette Week that they colonized this style of food
when they decided to “pick the brains of every tortilla lady there in the worst
broken Spanish ever.”
The
fundamental contention of both articles is that white Americans went to Mexico
and exploited the labor and methods of people of color without compensating
them, in typical colonial style.
There
is even a Google document circulating
that lists restaurants in the Portland area that aren’t appropriative.
“This
is NOT about cooking at home or historical influences on cuisines; it’s about profit,
ownership, and wealth in a white supremacist culture,” the note at the top of
the list says.
Almost
as soon as the owners of Kooks Burritos expressed excitement about the
prospects of their business — “The second we had the tortilla, we were like, ‘We’re
doing this'” — the excitement was over.
The
business is dead.